Help, my washing machine won’t spin! Is the device broken now? Don’t worry, because if the washing machine stops spinning, that’s a cause for concern, but by no means a reason to panic. Because one of the following ten causes will be responsible for the malfunction, the good thing is: 7 of them can be fixed immediately!
The washing machine does not spin
… or the washing machine won’t drain! If the washing machine does not spin, there is usually no mechanical breakdown. Mostly it is due to the water drainage or blocked water drainage. If there is water in the machine and it cannot be pumped out, the laundry in the washing machine will be just as wet after the spin as before.
That the washing machine does not spin can be due to the following reasons:
Water induced errors
- Clogged fluff filter
- Foreign matter in the pump
- Clogged drain hose
- Clogged siphon
- Broken drain pump
But even if the machine is loaded incorrectly or is very unbalanced in the event of a fault, the washing machine will not spin or end the spin with an error. The following causes of errors can be to blame:
Other causes of failure
- Wrong loading
- The washing machine is crooked
- Transport lock
- Defective shock absorbers
- Used engine coals
The possible reasons that prevent the washing machine from spinning are detailed below. We not only show how the errors are found but also how they can be eliminated at the same time.
Clogged fluff filter or foreign bodies in the pump
If there is water in the washing machine, the problem is apparent. But the cause of this has yet to be found. However, before a diagnosis can take place, controlled emptying is on the program. Washing machines usually have a mechanism designed for this near the fluff filter. This can be integrated into the lint filter or in the form of a separate drainage hose.
Tip: If the washing machine is on the floor, emptying it will probably be associated with the usual difficulties. There is simply no space to put a reasonably suitable vessel under. A baking sheet has spared a lot of nerves here and prevented flooding.
Once the water has been drained, the fluff filter can now be checked for clogging. If the fluff filter is blocked, the cause has already been found, and the problem has been solved. Nevertheless, it is advisable to check all other points regarding the sewage route. Because one cause rarely comes alone!
Once the fluff filter has been unscrewed, the sewage or drain pump is usually clearly visible. One look reveals more than a thousand words. If there are no objects near the pump or if the pump blades are not blocked, foreign bodies in the pump can be excluded as the cause, and the search continues.
Clogged drain hose or siphon
If the pump and lint filter are clean or free of hair, tissue residues, and other items, the drain hose or siphon should now also be checked because these can also be to blame for the fact that the washing machine cannot pump out the water.
To check the drainage hose, it is unscrewed from the siphon, and then the mouth is blown through vigorously several times. It’s not particularly appetizing, but it helps! However, the entire outside hose can also be removed for diagnosis. However, it must not be forgotten that a hose also leads inside the machine to the connection point of the drain hose, which can also be blocked.
However, if the drain hose is free, it is worth checking the siphon for blockages. Especially if this has a double function and connects both the washing machine and the dryer to the drain, it is advisable to check the bottlenecks.
Once the blockage is found, the problem is hopefully resolved.
However, if the discharge lines are free of obstructions, the drain or wastewater pump itself can, of course, be the cause. If the cause of the pump can be determined beyond doubt (rattling, no function), either a service technician has to be called, or you can try your luck yourself. With the right know-how, skilled do-it-yourselfers can replace the pump themselves.
Incorrect loading, poor installation location or broken shock absorbers
However, if there is no water in the washing machine and the washing machine still does not spin or the spinning stops, the cause is elsewhere. If loud noises can be heard during the wash cycle or the washing machine jumps, transport locks that have not been removed, incorrect loading, a poor installation location, or broken shock absorbers can be to blame for the misery.
The former is easy to fix. If the transport locks were not removed during commissioning, they must be removed, and the problem is solved.
For example, if the washing machine is crooked or not on a solid surface (vibrating wooden slats, boards), the resulting movements and vibrations can cause the machine to stop the spinning process. Again, the solution is not particularly difficult. The washing machine is placed on a firm, level surface, and then started up again.
However, incorrect loading can also result in the washing machine, not spinning or inevitably stopping the spinning process.
An incorrect load can mean that there is either too much laundry or too little laundry in the machine. If there is only a heavy sweater in the machine, the machine cannot evenly distribute the weight of the items of clothing. A result is a washing machine that doesn’t spin! The solution is very simple: the machine is loaded with either more or less laundry.
The shock absorber is the last one in the list of causes for a hopping or non-skidding washing machine. If the machine is correctly loaded, but it makes loud noises and causes problems even at low spin speeds, only changing the shock absorbers will help. One of the problems that can be fixed, but not quite as quickly.
Used engine coals
If all the causes and problems described so far did not apply or if no remedial action could be found and the machine is difficult to get going anyway, another cause may be responsible for the problem. If the engine coals are used up, the washing machine drum will only turn very slowly, and there is no longer any question of vigorous spinning.
Whether the engine coals are to blame or not can only be determined by checking, the engine has to be removed for this, but that too can be done by the skilled do-it-yourselfer.